A
BOOKCASE
This beautiful
piece of
mission furniture can be made at a very moderate cost by anyone who
has a slight knowledge of tool use much labor can be saved by
ordering the material prepared, i.e. mill ready cut to size, dressed
and sanded quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use and it is
natively easy to obtain. Plain-sawed oak looks well, but is more
liable to warp than the quarter-sawed and this is quite an element in
pieces as wide as the ones used. For the complete bookcase the
following material will be needed:
1 top, 3/4 by 15 by 31
1/4 in., hard wood, S-1-S.
1 top back board,
3/4 by 4 by 30
1/4 in., hard wood, S-1-S.
2 sides, 3/4 by 14
by 50
in., hard wood, S-1-S.
1 bottom, 3/4 by 14
by 28
3/4 in., hard wood, S-1-S.
1 bottom rail, 3/4
by 4
by 28 3/4 in., hard wood, S-1-S.
1 center piece,
3/4 by 2 by 45
3/4 in., hard wood, S-2-S.
4 door sides,
3/4 by 1 1/2 by
45 1/4 in., hard wood, S-2-S.
4 door ends, 3/4 by
PA by
14 in., hard wood, S-2-S.
4 pieces door
lattice,
1/2 by 1/2 by
12 1/2 in., hard wood.
4 pieces door
lattice,
1/2 by 1/2 by 7 in., hard wood.
2 bottom cleats, 1
1/4 by
1 1/4 by 13 in., soft wood.
2 top cleats, 1 by
1 by
12 1/2 in., soft wood.
3 shelves, 1/2 by
12 by
28 1/2 in., soft wood.
12 pieces backing,
3/8 by
4 by 29 3/4 in., soft wood.
4 hinges.
2 door handles.
Begin with the
sides by
cutting them so they will pair up all right. The front edges are
rounded while the back edges are rabbeted on the inside as deep as
the backing to be used. The bottoms are cut as shown in the sketch.
Holes about 1/2 in. deep should be bored on the inside at the proper
places for the wooden pegs which hold up the shelves.
The top and
bottom boards
should have the front edges rounded and sanded the same as the sides.
Completed
Bookcase
Details
of Bookcase
(click for larger image)
The top board is
sanded
on one side only and care should be taken to get the best side up.
Now cut and fit the top back board. This is fastened to the top by
means of screws. Screw two cleats to each of the sides as shown and
by running screws through these into the top and bottom boards the
frame is completed.
The backing
which can be
made of some cheap lumber is now put on. Next put in the center
upright piece between the doors by means of a tenon and mortise at
the top and nail at the bottom. The front edge should be rounded and
the edge and sides sanded. Cut and fit the bottom rail as shown. It
is fastened to the frame by means of cleats on the back side.
The doors are
put
together by means of a tenon and mortise. They should be rabbeted for
the lattice work and the glass. This lattice work can be omitted and
leaded glass put in its place which is very becoming to this kind of
work.
When the case is
completed it must be carefully gone over with sandpaper before any
finish is applied.
A mission stain
is
suitable for work of this kind, but it can also be finished in
"golden oak" which is done in the following manner: First
put on a golden oak stain and after it has dried for about 2 hours,
apply the filler. Let this dry about 10 minutes then rub off with an
old rag. Then go over the case again with some very fine sandpaper
and after seeing that all parts are free from dust and dirt the
varnish can be applied. Three coats of varnish will give a beautiful
glossy finish.
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